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This project is based on old-fashioned orangery planters that were used to set out citrus trees in the garden; they also held a multitude of other plants on a terrace or along an old walkway in the garden. They were raised off the ground to provide the orange and lemon trees with good air circulation, which helped prevent disease, but the legs also give the planter an elegant look.
The tapered design of these planters requires a little attention to detail, so follow the directions closely.
Material:
One 2"x4"x12' red cedar board
One 1"x8"x10' red cedar board
One 1"x8"x8' red cedar board
1 1/2" and 2 1/2" stainless steel screws
Exterior wood glue
Tools:
Pencil
Tape Measure
Carpenter's square
Hammer
Coping saw
Plug cutter
Drill
Screw bit, screw gun, or screwdriver
Countersink drill bit
Table saw
Dado blade set
Miter saw
Palm sander
Fine-grade sandpaper
Wood finish
Directions:
1. Using table saw, rip down 2"x4"x12' cedar board into two 18", two 21", and two 22" lengths, and then rip each of these lengths down into 1 1/2" x 1 1/2" (nominal) lengths. You will end up with four 1 1/2"x 1 1/2" x 18" pieces, four 1 1/2"x 1 1/2"x 21" pieces, and four 1 1/2"x 1 1/2"x 22" pieces.
2. Using a miter saw, create planter legs by cutting 10-degree angles at both ends of 21" lengths, bringing each piece down to a finished length of 20". These angles must be cut with board being held at a 45-degree angle to where the board will normally lay flat (so that the 10-degree angle runs from one corner of board to the opposite corner). It is best to create a jig to keep the corner stable while making these cuts. Trim top and bottom ends of leg with 10-degree angles so that angles are parallel to one another(angled in the same direction).
3. Using miter saw, cut 7-degree angles at ends of 18" pieces for a finished length of 17" on short side of the board. Unlike the angles on the planter legs, these brackets will have end angles that face away from each other. Using table saw, set blade to a 7-degree angle and rip a 7-degree bevel down the length of 17" legs, making sure the bevel is applied to long side of board where angles create the greatest distance.
4. Install a 3/8" dado blade on table saw set to a depth of 1/2". The fence should be set 3/8" away from the near side of the blade. Set the four 20" legs in place and identify the inside corner of each leg. The 2 sides adjacent to this corner are where grooves will be cut out. Place a mark on each 20" leg, 3 1/4" from bottom. Use the dado blade to create a groove from top of each leg down to this mark.
5. Test-fit bottom brackets to 4 legs. The bottom bracket should be attached 3" from bottom of each leg, with 7-degree beveled side facing up. The brackets should be fastened to legs by screwing 2 1/2" screws through corner of each leg to abutting bracket. Be sure to set screws so those attaching each bracket do not hit one another. Predrill holes and countersink screws; apply glue to each joint.
6. With planter frame completed, make side panels for planter. Using stock 1"x 8" boards with an actual dimension of 5/8"x 7 1/4", cut out four 22" lengths from 10' length and four 20" lengths from each 8' length. ON each of 20" lengths, mark out and cut a 7-degree angle on width of board. Repeat at opposite end of board so that long-side dimension is 19 1/2" and short-side dimension is 17 3/4". ON each of the 22" lengths, mark out and cut a 7-degree angle on width of the board. Repeat at opposite end of board so that long-side dimension is 21 1/4" and short-side dimension is 19 1/2".
7. Install a 1/2" dado blade on table saw and set to a height of 5/16". Adjust the fence to allow for just the end 1/2" of each panel to run over the dado blade, then notch out angled ends of panels on face side. Dry-fit each panel into notches on planter frame and trim ends if necessary.
8. Measure length of each side of planter just above panels and cut remaining 1 1/2"x 1 1/2"x 22" to length with same 7-degree angle at each end. Also rip down length of each top piece at a 7-degree angle to sit flush with top of legs. Before attaching each of these pieces the same way the bottom brackets are attached (step 5), be sure to remove the side panels, add glue to the notched areas, and reinsert. The void left by the notches at the top of each leg can be filled by cutting small square plugs and gluing into place.
9. Cut out eight 1 1/2"x 18 1/2" slats from remaining 1x8 stock and space them evenly apart inside bottom of the planter with each end resting on inside of bottom bracket. Fasten each end with 1 1/2" screws.
10. Finally, cut out plugs from scrap and plug remaining screw holes, trim flush with coping saw, sand lightly, and add your finish of choice.